Developing handcrafted skincare product formulas involves creativity and having a basic understanding of ingredients, merging with a scientific approach to ensure effectiveness and safety.

Keep the following factors in mind as you learn about ingredients and how to formulate natural skincare.

• Research and get familiar with ingredient properties and interactions

• Start with simple formulations and gradually experiment with more complex formulas

• Consider factors like skin type, desired effects, and shelf life when formulating

• Test with small batches for consistency and performance

• Keep detailed records of ingredient rations and observations during formulation

• Ensure that the pH levels of products are skin-safe

• Seek feedback from testers and users of your products to refine formulations

• Experiment with different combinations of oils, butters, botanicals, actives, and additives

• Incorporate sustainability practices and use locally sourced ingredients

• Stay informed about industry trends and innovations in natural skincare

• Continuously learn and adapt formulations based on new discoveries

The workspace you have dedicated as your skincare lab, most likely your home kitchen, should be set up to allow safe, efficient formulation and effective cleaning, while also minimizing the chance of raw material confusion and adulteration.

• Specific areas have been allocated for equipment placement, orderly storage of materials, weighing and formulating, packaging, and sanitary operations

• The space is well-ventilated with ample lighting

• The space has a consistent temperature and low humidity

• Floors, walls, and ceilings are clean and in good repair

• Fixtures, ducts, and pipes are in good repair

• Water supply, drainage, sewage system, and washing facilities are sanitary and sufficient to facilitate cleanliness

Safety and sanitation are paramount in protecting both the formulator and the end-user (even if that is the same person).

• Protective personal equipment is always available and worn

• Sanitizing supplies are readily available

• Tools and work surfaces are sanitized before and after formulating to prevent contamination

• The precautions of working with hazardous materials like sodium hydroxide (lye) are understood and adhered to

• A well-stocked first aid kit is accessible

• Raw materials are kept away from food and living areas

• Hazardous materials are clearly labeled and stored away from food and living areas

• Flammable materials are stored in a designated area away from heat sources

• Proper disposal methods for waste materials are followed

• Emergency cleanup procedures are in place for accidents and spills

• Children, pets, and other distractions are kept away from production areas while formulating

• Regularly review and update safety protocols to reflect best practices

Formulation equipment, tools, utensils, and supplies should be suitably selected, regularly calibrated, and maintained.

• Equipment and utensils used in processing, holding, transferring, and filling are of appropriate design, material, and workmanship to prevent corrosion, buildup of material, or adulteration
• Equipment is appropriate for the scale and type of production
• Utensils, transfer equipment, and product contact surfaces are well-maintained, clean, and sanitized at appropriate intervals
• Cleaned and sanitized portable equipment and utensils are stored and located, and product contact surfaces of equipment are covered in a manner that protects them from dust or other contamination
• Scales are regularly calibrated
• Each piece of equipment is uniquely numbered for identification purposes

Selecting high-quality, skin-safe materials from reputable suppliers is fundamental for creating effective and safe products.

• Raw materials are inspected and examined assuring the absence of contamination, filth, microorganisms, or other extraneous substances to prevent adulteration of the finished product
• Raw materials are stored and handled in a manner that prevents their mix-up, contamination, or decomposition from exposure to excessive heat, cold, sunlight, or moisture
• Containers of materials are closed, bagged, or boxed and stored off the floor
• Containers of materials are labeled with the name of the material and the supplier's lot identification
• Unacceptable raw materials are never used and are properly disposed of

Establish and maintain written instructions and manufacturing controls, i.e. your product formulations, processing procedures, transfer and filling directions, and in-process control methods.

• Equipment for processing, transferring, and filling, utensils, and containers holding raw materials & bulk ingredients are clean, sanitary, and in good repair
• Only safe and appropriate materials are being used
• pH and quality control testing are done to examine the adequacy of mixing or other forms of processing
• Containers holding raw materials are properly identified during processing
• Product labels are properly formatted before the containers are labeled and filled
• Formulas and procedures are thoroughly documented to ensure the result will be a consistently high-quality product

Documentation and record-keeping of all formulations and testing processes are essential for ensuring product quality and compliance. Documents that should be maintained in your skincare lab notes include, but are not limited to:

• Standard Operating Procedures

• Detailed, written instructions, protocols, and checklists designed to achieve uniformity in the performance of a specific function or task
• Procedures may be included for weighing, mixing ingredients, handling and storing raw materials, cleaning equipment, etc.

• Specification (Spec) Sheets

• Provide detailed information about the characteristics of a product or raw material
• Spec sheets include details like descriptions of materials or declaration of ingredients, proportion ratios, intended use, shelf life, and relevant safety information

• Master Formulas

• Comprehensive documents that include all of the specifications, formulas, processes, and step-by-step instructions to produce a product
• The exact formulation and process for each soap type and skin care product to ensure consistency in every batch
• Describe what should be done with each batch

• Batch Records

• These records are kept for each batch of product made, documenting the actual ingredients used, quantities, production process, and any deviations from the Master Formula record
• Describe what was done with each Master Formula batch

• Log Sheets

• Record routine processes, operations, maintenance, and any significant events that take place before, during, and after formulating
• Types of logs formulators should maintain include ingredient sourcing, equipment cleaning & maintenance, product testing, inventory, and research & development

• Raw Material Labels

• Labels on raw materials should include the name of the ingredient, supplier, lot number, date purchased, expiration date, handling requirements, and any pertinent safety information

• Equipment Manuals

• Manuals provided by equipment manufacturers include instructions for use, troubleshooting, and safety guidelines. They should be maintained for as long as the equipment is in use.

Protocols and procedures should be regularly reviewed and updated. Any deviations and corrective actions should be documented.

Establish quality control procedures to monitor the quality of raw materials, in-process materials, packaging materials, and finished products.

• Reserve samples of raw materials and finished products for a specified period for reference and quality control purposes
• Store the samples under conditions that protect them from contamination and deterioration
• Conduct testing, including microbial, testing of pH, and patch testing, to ensure product safety, stability, and efficacy
• Document any adjustments or variations made during formulation, all quality control activities, and test results
• Establish a system for tracking expiration dates and rotating raw material inventory
• Stay informed about industry standards for testing
• Periodically audit and reevaluate the implementation of your good manufacturing practices and testing protocols, and make corrective actions as needed

Effective labeling and packaging are essential for conveying product information and safeguarding the container's contents.

• Label display panel should show:

• Name of the product
• Identity of the product
• Net weight or volume
• Usage and storage instructions
• Batch or lot number
• Expiration date
• Contact information of the formulator
• Any relevant warnings or precautions; clearly state any potential allergens

• List ingredients in descending order of concentration
• Ensure packaging is safe, durable, and leak-proof
• Ensure labels are waterproof
• Test packaging materials for functionality and compatibility with product formulations
• Consider your packaging design aesthetic and branding appeal

• Don't wait until you have all GMP elements in place to start formulating. Use common sense and improve your protocols as you go!
• Don't make adjustments to a formula during processing. Make notes and adjust the formula after production.
• Keep page layouts, numbering systems, and units of measurement consistent through all GMPs and SOPs
• Maintain a backup of all important documentation on an external drive or separate location